The Most Popular Gemstones in Antique and Vintage Cufflinks: Onyx, Sapphire, Mother of Pearl & More
Antique and vintage cufflinks have long been admired for their rich history and impressive craftsmanship but also for the variety of exquisite gemstones embellished on them. Gemstones play an important role in the overall design of a cufflink, from shimmering mother of pearl panels to vibrant sapphires.
Collectors can gain a deeper insight into a pair of cufflink’s history, quality and durability from the gemstones featured on them. In this guide well be looking at a range of gemstones used on some of the cufflinks in our collection and discuss how their symbolism and style can help you choose your perfect pair.
Onyx Cufflinks
Onyx is a deep black colour which provides a sleek and polished look. Its particularly striking when paired with platinum or white gold and looks excellent paired with diamonds too. The Art Deco period featured a lot of bold patterns and onyx was used frequently, it allows for some dramatic looking designs thanks to its contrast with other stones and metals. Ranking a 6.5 to 7 on the Mohs scale of hardness, onyx is suitable for everyday wearing and could look good day or night as they pair well with all colours and outfits.
Mother of Pearl Cufflinks
Iridescent and elegant, mother of pearl is a subtle but stylish stone used in cufflinks. Pearls were used on cufflinks back in the Victorian era and remain a favourable choice thanks to their natural sheen.
Flat discs of mother of pearl on the cufflink is a sophisticated and understated choice, suitable for all formal occasions. It pairs well with diamonds and compliments both gold and platinum making for some luxurious designs.
When to Wear Mother of Pearl Cufflinks
other of pearl cufflinks are particularly well suited to formal occasions and black-tie events where understated elegance is key. Their soft iridescence complements evening dress beautifully, making them an excellent choice for weddings, gala dinners, and ceremonial events.
They are also appropriate for refined daytime occasions, including formal business settings and traditional gatherings, where subtle detail enhances classic tailoring without appearing overly bold.
Why Choose Mother of Pearl Cufflinks?
Mother of pearl offers a timeless and sophisticated alternative to brighter gemstones. Its gentle lustre reflects light softly, creating depth and movement without overt sparkle. This makes it ideal for those who prefer discreet refinement over dramatic brilliance.
Associated with purity and calm, mother of pearl carries a quiet elegance that pairs effortlessly with both yellow and white metals. It is especially appealing to those who appreciate classic dress codes and enduring style rather than trend-led accessories.
How to Wear Mother of Pearl Cufflinks?
Mother of pearl cufflinks pair beautifully with crisp white or pale blue shirts, where their natural iridescence can be appreciated. They are particularly effective with black-tie attire, complementing a tuxedo with subtle polish rather than distraction.
In professional settings, they add quiet distinction without overpowering the overall look. Keeping other accessories minimal allows the soft sheen of the mother of pearl to remain the focal detail at the cuff.
Sapphire Cufflinks
One of the most popular gemstones in antique jewellery, this stone is available in blue, pink and yellow hues. Sapphires are one of the most durable stones ranking a 9 on the Mohs scale, making it very easy to wear your sapphire cufflinks every day. They are said to represent truth, loyalty and sincerity.
Being the birthstone for those born in September makes them an excellent gift for a loved one’s birthday. Furthermore, they are the traditional gift for 45th wedding anniversaries.
When to Wear Sapphire Cufflinks
Sapphires offer a distinguished alternative to diamond or onyx cufflinks, providing rich colour without excess brilliance. Long associated with royalty, integrity, and protection, sapphires carry strong symbolism while maintaining classic appeal.
They suit those who appreciate gemstone jewellery with depth and character rather than overt sparkle. Whether set in yellow gold for warmth or white gold and platinum for a crisp contrast, sapphire cufflinks deliver refinement with personality.
How to Wear Sapphire Cufflinks?
Sapphire cufflinks work best with structured shirts and tailored suits, where their colour can act as a subtle accent. They complement navy suits particularly well, creating tonal harmony, while offering striking contrast against grey or black fabrics.
For evening wear, sapphire cufflinks provide a polished yet distinctive alternative to traditional diamond styles. They are most effective when the rest of the accessories are kept minimal, allowing the gemstone’s natural richness to stand out.
Diamond Cufflinks
Diamonds are frequently seen embellished on brooches and as the feature stone on a ring, but they do appear on cufflinks too. Diamonds on cufflinks add a subtle hint of brilliance without feeling too ornate. They can be used to enhance geometric patterns or contrast with other gemstones and pairing them with platinum maximises their brilliance.
Diamonds are a great choice when looking for a durable stone, as they are the strongest, ranking a maximum 10 on the Mohs scale.
Why Choose Diamond Cufflinks?
Diamond cufflinks offer timeless sophistication. Unlike coloured gemstones or enamel, diamonds provide clean, versatile brilliance that complements virtually any shirt or suit colour.
They are ideal for those who appreciate fine craftsmanship and investment-worthy accessories. Whether set in yellow gold, white gold, platinum, or mixed metals, diamond cufflinks carry a sense of permanence and quiet confidence that never feels trend-driven.
Why Choose Diamond Cufflinks?
Diamond cufflinks pair effortlessly with formal shirting and structured tailoring. For black-tie attire, they complement a tuxedo beautifully, adding light at the cuff without distracting from the overall silhouette. In business settings, smaller or more understated diamond designs maintain professionalism while introducing subtle distinction.
White metals such as platinum and white gold enhance the crisp brilliance of diamonds, while yellow gold settings add warmth and contrast. They are best styled with clean lines and minimal additional accessories, allowing the diamonds to provide a refined finishing touch.
Diamond cufflinks arent just suitable for men and are increasingly worn by women who favour sharp tailoring, structured blouses, or modern suiting. They add a confident, elegant accent to French cuffs and can elevate both formal and professional ensembles.
Jade Cufflinks
Jade is often called the emperor’s stone partly due to its connection to Chinese royalty and partly because the Chinese characters for ”emperor” and ”jade” are almost identical. It is well known for its stunning shades of green but there are examples that are white or purple.
Connections between jade and the heart shakra are drawn as that is represented by the colour green in the ancient system used to describe energies within the body. Widely regarded as a good luck stone synonymous with health and confidence, jade is a lovely alternative to a more commonly used stone such as emerald for example.
Why Choose Jade Cufflinks?
Jade offers a distinctive alternative to traditional gemstone cufflinks. Its smooth cabochon finish and rich, natural colour, ranging from deep green to pale celadon, create depth without excessive brilliance. Unlike diamonds or enamel, jade has a soft lustre that conveys quiet confidence and heritage appeal. It is ideal for those who appreciate natural gemstones, cultural symbolism, and jewellery with understated character.
How to Wear Jade Cufflinks?
Jade cufflinks pair particularly well with navy, charcoal, cream, or earth-toned tailoring, where their natural colour can stand out without clashing. Yellow gold settings enhance warmer green hues, while white gold or platinum settings emphasise cooler tones. For formal wear, they offer a refined alternative to black onyx; for business attire, they add individuality without being distracting.
They are best styled with crisp shirts and clean lines, allowing the stone’s smooth surface and natural beauty to take centre stage. Worn thoughtfully, jade cufflinks bring depth, symbolism, and quiet sophistication to a gentleman’s wardrobe.
Jade cufflinks aren’t solely suitable for gentleman, women can confidently wear jade cufflinks, particularly when styling tailored shirts, blouses with French cuffs, or contemporary suiting. As fashion becomes increasingly fluid, cufflinks are no longer restricted to traditional menswear and can add a sharp, elegant edge to a structured outfit.
Ruby Cufflinks
Rubies have been popular across multiple eras and their bold colour looks wonderful on cufflinks. Ruby is the July birthstone and 40th wedding anniversary traditional gift.
These deep red stones are heavily associated with love, romance and intense emotions, as well as being believed to benefit your health and thought to boost your estate. If this wasn’t enough positive symbolism, they are one of the most durable stones ranking a 9 on the Mohs scale, making cufflinks very easy to wear daily. Rubies pair well with a variety of other gemstones making for some colourful and contrasting designs.
When to Wear Ruby Cufflinks
Ruby cufflinks are best worn when confident colour and refined distinction are desired. Their rich red hue makes them particularly suited to evening events, formal dinners, weddings, and celebratory occasions where a touch of warmth enhances dark tailoring. They pair especially well with black, navy, or charcoal suits, where the ruby provides a striking yet controlled accent.
They are also especially meaningful for July birthdays, as ruby is the birthstone for July, and for milestone celebrations where symbolism and sentiment add depth to the occasion.
Why Choose Ruby Cufflinks
Rubies have long been associated with passion, strength, and prosperity, making them one of the most historically revered gemstones. Choosing ruby cufflinks offers a bold alternative to more traditional diamond or onyx styles, introducing colour without sacrificing elegance.
Their deep tone carries natural authority and warmth, particularly when set in yellow gold, while white metal settings create sharper contrast. Ideal for those who appreciate gemstones with heritage and symbolism, ruby cufflinks combine luxury with personality.
How to Wear Ruby Cufflinks
Ruby cufflinks work best with clean, structured tailoring that allows the gemstone to act as a deliberate focal point. They complement darker suiting particularly well and can subtly echo other red accents such as ties or pocket squares without appearing overly coordinated.
For formal wear, ruby provides a distinctive alternative to black accessories, adding vibrancy while remaining refined. Keeping other jewellery minimal ensures the richness of the ruby stands out in a controlled and sophisticated way.
Which Gemstone Should You Choose for your Cufflinks?
Your choice of gemstone can be impacted by the following:
- Occasion: Everyday wearing may require more durable stones like diamond, ruby or sapphire whereas more delicate options like mother of pearl may be saved for special events.
- Symbolism: The stones meaning or believed significance may draw you to it or feel like a fitting gift for a birthday or anniversary.
- Overall style: If you love bold designs, you may seek stones such as jade or onyx for more contrast. Want something which is slight understated? Try a minimalistic diamond design.
Gemstones are a big part of a cufflink’s final designs but the most important thing is to choose what speaks to you the most. Whether you are drawn to the elegant sheen of mother of pearl or you want the vivid blue hues of sapphire, each gemstone offers its own unique character, symbolism and appeal. Explore our collection of cufflinks to find a pair that is finely crafted, and rich in history.
